Colors of Malaysia

For 12 years now, the Malaysian Tourism Ministry has been doing an event they call "Colours of Malaysia" (Citrawarna Malaysia in Malay). It's a culmination of the many different things that tourists are encouraged to see or experience for themselves when they set foot in in the Malaysian soil. The title of the event promised colours, and colours the event brought. I was just in awe of how well they managed the event and was amazed by the spectacle that happened before my very eyes.

So it was a weekend. The weather was itself: changing constantly. Morning was sunny then it rained in the afternoon. Good thing the event was in the evening when finally the god of the rain felt like resting.

Foreign dignitaries from all over the world were invited to the event. Special seats were allocated to the tourists and foreigners, but I chose to seat with the locals, the general public. The announcer promised to give the audience the night of our lives with 7000+ performers from all over Malaysia (peninsular and Bornean Malaysia both) of various background contributed their talents to the event.
And then it began, high school bands spearheaded the three-hour long parade that made all eyes glued to the tarpaulined street in front of the majestic Abdul Samad Building of the Ministry of Communication. The changing lights of the building that served as the background set the mood. The people of different walks of life, with cameras in their hands, clicked and snapped at every performance they see, every flicker of fireworks display, and every float that passed by.

The parade was thematically-arranged. It started with what else but the airport. Where millions of tourists every year arrive at. Malaysia has had good share of tourist arrival ever since. Its Malaysia truly Asia campaign has been most effective in alluring tourists to experience the promise of a truly Asia vacation. Aside from the campaign, infrastructure development has also contributed to how they boosted their tourism industry. Airports are linked to the city by buses and trains regularly travelling to and from the airport for the people's travel luxuries. Bus terminals were improved and widened and walkways connecting different tourist spots in the city were erected to provide leisurely and hassle-free holidays for the visiting tourists.

Chidren of Malaysia

Tourist information centers and free maps were made available in all corners of Kuala Lumpur making sure that no tourist is lost or put into harm's way. They boast of these developments and they should, because they've really done a good job, which is what the Colours of Malaysia was all about: to market their products, to encourage people to come and to essentially boost up the local economy and people's tourism-related livelihood. These messages were clear, something which I think other countries can learn from (including my country). The performance was Broadway as they celebrate city life and the convenience of Kuala Lumpur as a global city of outstanding dimensions.

The next part was the nature theme with a float depicting divers celebrating the mega diverse marine life of Malaysian seas. Rafflessia and orangutans mascots on the side of the float represented the vast flora and fauna found in the tropical forests of Malaysia. The audience was treated to a performance magical fairies of the forest like some hundred tinker bells dancing to nature-themed music with the alluring voice of a Malaysian singer serenading us. It was spectacular. I almost felt like I was watching a Mardigras in Malaysia.

Next came the local culture theme. The balay kampong song (village house), a local song was heard all over the grounds with locals singing along. They presented their home stay program where tourists can experience how to live among the village folks for a week to a year through their various programs. The promise was to experience a life away from the hassle and bustle of the city. Where tourists can go fishing and swimming in the rivers, plant and harvest rice in the paddy fields, cook and eat local dishes, fly kites (wau) among with local children and live in huts like the local does. Performances of harvest festivals from the Orang Asli, Sabah and Sarawak indigenous people's group filled the streets with merrymaking and chanting of thanking the gods for their harvest. The performers were wearing garments made of coconut leaves; tree barks dyed abaca headpieces and accessories made of seeds and animal bones. People stomped their feet to the beat of the earth as the dancers call on the spirits of the forests to offer their harvests.

Since Malaysia has for hundreds of years been under colonization, the next them was heritage. The rich culture of baba nyonya (Chinese-Malays) of the Straits settlement was celebrated with hundreds of students dressed up in traditional baba nyonya costume paraded the streets. The Eurasians of the Portuguese settlement in Melaka also joined in the celebration with their own kind of dancing. Floats of familiar landmarks like the Melaka house, Melaka church, Penang's Georgetown and others were also paraded while hundreds of colorful and lit-up beca (trishaw) followed the float. Surely, colonization brought more colors to the already colorful Malaysia.

After the heritage came sports and leisure where they presented the many Asian and world sports competition held in Malaysia. Also came the shopping where they boasted of sales and promotions year-round with every brand of luxury goods as well as low-priced goods are available in Kuala Lumpur and other major cities.
The last two parts which I think were the highlight of the parade were the food theme celebrating the diversity of food culture and taste of Malaysia because of its many cultures and influences; and the people and culture theme which presented the celebration of diversity of people's cultures, festivals and traditions: Malays, Chinese, Indians, Indigenous people, Christians/Eurasians.

For the food part, hundreds of chefs and hcef wannabes paraded carts of different foods of Malaysia. Malay food (nasi goreng, nasi lemak, sate, oxtail soup) Chinese food (kwae teow, noodles, dimsums) Indian food (curries, briyani rice, naans), Western food (pastas and pizzas and burgers) and Middle Eastern food (kebabs and goat and sheep dishes).

For the people and culture part, each of the group presented a festival for which it is known for. The Malays presented their Hari Raya Idil Fitri festival (New Year and Christmas) where kids in traditional Malay costumes holding colorful cube-like props danced to the local Malay rhythm. The Chinese group danced the Lion and dragon dance all in massive red colours as they celebrate the Chinese New Year. Fireworks followed afterwards. The Indigenous groups of Sabah and Sarawak danced their harvest festival and thanksgiving for the good year they had. The Indian communities depicted their celebration of Thaipusam and Deepavali with fully-costumed Kerala traditional dancers and float-carriers Tamil dancers circled the streets with merriment. The Christian communities depicted the Western style of Christmas and New Year through a Broadway-like presentation.

When the performance was done, I thought the program was over. But a little while after, all the performers went back to the grounds as they danced to the beat of the tourism jingle of Malaysia. The tourists were glad to join them to the dance and the street was just filled with colors and happy aces and never-ending merrymaking fit for a celebration of massive exuberance. It was a night to remember indeed. I walked around the streets after the performance trying to take shots of the performers smiling and happily hugging each other for a job they've done very well.

I too was glad for having experienced the Colours of Malaysia. It was something I was something I would always remember as part of my cultural experiences during the exchange. No wonder Malaysia has been very successful in their tourism campaigns. They showcase what they have and they celebrate their differences as an integral part of the culture of Malaysia living up to its claim of one that is truly Asia.

on Cultural Integration, the Filipino Psychology Way

In Filipino psychology(Sikolohiyang Filipino) developed by Dr. Virgilio Enriquez of UP, cultural integration occurs in several stages.

These stages are:
pakikitungo (civility)
pakikisalamuha (act of mixing)
pakikilahok (act of joining)
pakikibagay (conformity)
pakikisama (being united with the group)
for ibang tao (other people or outsiders). The goal of course is for the person to be able to unite with the group in its endeavors.

But it doesn't end there. When the person felt that he belongs with the group already, there are three more stages in which one person can claim that he's "one with the group" already.

These stages are
pakikipagpalagayang-loob (act of mutual trust)
pakikisangkot (act of joining others)
pakikipagkaisa (being one with others)

The reason I'm bringing this up is because I think it holds a universal value. There are of course cultural nuances such as in the cultural conception of "self", "others", "social distance", "norms" and "customs", but given that the exchange offers a kind of cultural integration merits that he steps mentioned above might somehow describe the process of how a person is able to work with people of different background altogether.

In the true essence of a discourse paper, let me take myself as a "case" to further explain the theory and elucidate the practical application of it to the exchange program. Let me discuss it by stage and see what stage of integration I'm in. Later on, people reading this might try it as well.

Pakikitungo (civility)
This is the awkward stage for me. It's the observation stage. The moment I entered the premises of my host organization's office, I started observing things, people and their actions. The after a while, I offered a smile, trying to ease the tension of my alienating presence. Then, a smile was given in return. Basic questions like "how was your trip" "have you eaten your breakfast" where then asked and in all politeness, I answered as I was asked. Then, I started to get to know them, asked them their names, their work and other things that are crucial since I'm going to work with them for the next 10 months.

first day in office

Pakikisalamuha (act of mixing)
This is the extension of the observation stage. For me, it was when I was asked to go with the Board of Directors for study visit to attend the organizations' area general meeting. I was part of the group, I was acknowledged as an "exchanged staff" meaning that in the general organizational structure, I'm identified as one of the persons working for the achievement of their goals. However, it's merely a label: "Research and Documentation Specialist of CUPC". It was when I was listening to them spoke in the meetings and I too spoke in front of them.

attending area general meeting

Pakikilahok (act of joining)
It's when I started doing the "formal" things that the organization required of me. It's the weekly meetings, the punching of cards, the lunch a 1 (instead of 12) and other things that were required of me as a staff. The rules were set for me to participate in the kind of organizational frameworks they work on.

Sometimes, this can also mean joining them in their celebrations and traditions like Ponggal festival and Thaipusam festival, wedding invitations, birthday parties and others.

invited fro a wedding dinner of an officemate

Pakikibagay (conformity)
This stage characterize the learning of their habits especially the informal ones like:
- Where to eat and what to eat during lunch (Chinese for Monday, Indian for Tuesday, Malay for Wednesday and so on and vice versa until I was able to figure out myself the kind of patterns that exist)
- What to drink during tea time - I've always been a coffee person but since it's their habit to drink tea, I had to conform
- What to give out during birthdays - for Indians, they usually give out candies or chocolates to the staff for their birthdays. I was thinking of doing the same actually, but I thought it wouldn't be a party so I bought pizza instead. So when I called them up for the pizza party, they were all asking, "where are the sweets?" Then only then I thought, you can't break traditions easily. Good thing they liked the pizza still.

my birthday celeb

-What to wear for Friday - In the Philippines, Friday is wash day, meaning you are allowed to go to work with just a polo shirt and jeans. But in Malaysia, Friday is the power dressing day. It's the day when everyone is expected to dress to kill. So when I came to the office in my jeans and polo shirt and my officemates where all in their colorful saris and long sleeves, I was like, "is there a celebration today I'm not aware of?" Good thing I'm always prompt at asking questions. So the next Fridays, I reserved the best long sleeves I have and since they even coordinate colors for Friday, I sometimes do as they please, which was kinda nice actually.

Being one with the group
I f I was able to reach the level of conformity, does it mean that I'm already one with the group? I don't think I have with the whole group but I think I have with some members of the group, the ones I consider close friends among the staff. The reasons for them becoming my friends are varied. Pakia, an FK participant prior to my batch was assigned in my home organization so I was able to develop friendship with her more than anyone else in the organization. Nirmala, sits at a desk beside me so the proximity allowed us to be able to talk more often than with others which later on developed our friendship, Uncle Raj (notice how I address him as uncle and not Mr.) accompanied and assisted me during the time I was settling in my apartment. He invited me to sleep over at their house and I was able to meet his family. He also went with me to most of my pre-independent stage so I learned to trust him and consider him a friend.

from left (with Uncle Raj and his granddaughter, Pakia, and Nirmala)

I'm not sure what stage in the "being one with the group" I'm in right now. As far as I'm concerned there are times when I feel like part of them especially when I'm doing my tasks and they're seeing that it's one with the organization's goals. There are also times when I feel left out especially when they start talking in their local language and do their own work which even orientations cannot ensure my being able to know the details fully.

These kinds of nuances I attribute to the fact that my stay here is temporary. In their long history of working together, I took part in a time almost forgettable unless you leave a lasting impression. What is 10 months in 35 years? But this thought also made me even more willing to work and achieve my objectives so that even if it's just been 10 months, I am still able to somehow affect the direction of the organization.

Now what?
Everyone has different ways of integrating with people. Some easily does it, some finds it hard. Some can gain people's trust in just one seating, some requires time. Time and circumstance are its variables but so is the willingness of the person to integrate. Integration does not mean losing your individuality. Integration means that a person is accepted by an organization with consideration of his uniqueness and identity. Conformity should not be the only way by which a person can integrate. Concessions are to be made but not absolute ones.

So this is what I say to myself:
The reason why you are in the exchange is because there is something in you that the organization is yet to have and conforming does not and will not create the opportunity for that change to occur. Letting your individuality shine while considering other people's individualities is the way by which you can gain the best position to create the change. And this takes one step at a time. Whether I reach the last stage of theis cultural integration thing, I still have 3 months to see.

Thaipusam Tales

It's all the essential elements of a festival combined: religious tradition, deep devotion (almost like fanaticism), colorful kavadis (floats) and chariots, millions of people (locals and tourists) in attendance, politics, midday sun, fireworks, food, traffic jam, consumerism, and a whole lot of garbage after.

It's the time of the year when Batu Caves come alive for the annual Thaipusam, a Hindu festival celebrated by the Tamil communities all over the world to commemorate Parvati's handing of a spear to her son Murugan to vanquish the evil demon Soorapadam. It's a celebration of the triumph of good versus evil. To read tales from Hindu mythology/religion is a delight, but to see devotees commemorate the event is even more spectacular.

(a kavadi adorned with peocock feathers with a young image of Lord Murugan)

My supervisor took me to Batu Caves to witness the festival firsthand, and the culture vulture in me was very eager taking pictures, asking questions and experiencing the pilgrimage.

(me in the middle of the crowd)

Climbing the steps

Many Indians come to Batu caves for something like a pilgrimage, and as with most kinds of pilgrimage, it involves sacrifice, prayers and wishes, and offerings. The devotees have various ways of expressing their deep devotion and faith. The basic form of devotion is climbing the 272 steps of Batu Caves. Climbing the steps isn't easy especially when thousands of people climb it at a time. I can't simply miss the experience so I decided to go up too. I've climbed the steps four times already (one of my officemate would take me there when he visit the temple) but I especially wanted to go up on Thaipusam. During ordinary days, a lot of locals would use the steps for their exercise routine especially during the weekends, and all year round, tourists brought by bas persiaran (tourist bus) would flock the area taking as many pictures as their visit time allows.

From the ground, the people climbing look like a row of ants following one after another. It was a spectacular view. It reminded me of Catholic tradition during holy week back at home where devotees would climb grottos of a good number of steps in order for them to have a glimpse of the image of Jesus, touch the image on top and see the marvelous views.

(thousands of people climbing the stairs to the main temple)

Climbing wasn't easy. A good number of people fainted and stopped along the way. Good thing first aiders were stationed along the stairs to assist those who fainted. Fortunately, I did not faint, even if I did not have water with me along the way. I was able to drink water when I was on top, though it took a while because the supply of water does not match the demands of the people at all.

(the towering statue of Lord Muruga overshadowing thousands of devotees climbing the cave on its back)

Offerings/ Sacrifices

Another noticeable way of expressing devotion is through offerings. I saw a lot of people carrying pots of milk which they offered in the main temple once they reach the top. Others would carry fruits and food with them in baskets or jasmine garlands. Some would offer money in donation boxes found on top. Their offerings come with wishes and prayers for healing, for success, wealth, and other things both earthly and divine.

(a woman carrying a pot of milk on her head)

The more noticeable forms of sacrifices are shaving one's head, carrying heavy kavadis (representing burden) to the top of the cave, and acts of mortification of the flesh / self-hurting acts such as piercing the tongue or the cheeks, and attaching hooks on their backs while someone pulls them, and attaching fruits on ones back using pins and piercings. Mortification of the flesh such as lashing one's body, or piercing it, is a practice to cleanse oneself of sins and seek forgiveness of earthly indulgences. The death of the earthly self (represented by the flesh) is the life of the spirit, thus mortifying the flesh is a way to achieve a form of transcendence from the earthly being.

(head-shaven kid)

(a devotee carrying a kavadi, taking a break when the pilgrimage was halted)

(a man with piercings at his back being pulled by another man. he seems to be dancing along with the music as he swayed with the ropes)

I've observed some similar practices by Catholics such as being crucified and lashing one's back during holy week though the church does not encourage it anymore and labeled such acts as pagan.

Prior to Thaipusam, my supervisor said that the devotees would engage in days or weeks of fasting to prepare themselves physically and spiritually. I was in awe of the devotion the people have shown. It made me realize the importance of holding on to something. Call it faith, call it religion, call it principle, or mantra, the most important thing is it provides a sense of purpose and direction. Something that lights up the soul.

We reached the top of the cave after an hour or two. A lot of people who came before us were either praying, offering or taking pictures. There was a serenity amidst the commotion. It was like inviting for people to pray or meditate or just take a moment of silence as the light from the cathedral-like cave drops on the main temple. 

(view inside the cave)

The other elements

Tourism

Thaipusam has drawn a lot of attention from tourists especially Westerners and the neighboring countries. Come to think of it, I was one of the many tourists, an observer eager to take snaps of almost every little thing that's happening; curious about every little action and movement. It was new to me. Something I may have seen similar practices but in general, it was new to my senses. I've read some stuff about it but it doesn't quite compare to being present, being there witnessing as it unfolds. This maybe the same feelings the other tourists have that led them to pilgrimage with the locals, carry the kavadis and even experience the pains of piercing one's cheek or tongue.

Politics

Any festival will not be complete without the presence of politics, or politicians. The Prime Minister of Malaysia, Najib Razak was present. His pamphlets and posters (written in Tamil) were seen everywhere as well. He made a speech prior to our arrival at the venue. The procession was even halted for a while because he had to leave the venue and the security had to halt the procession for security and safety reasons. My supervisor said he's running for re-election this year, and his presence, his pamphlets, and his posters, mean only one thing: he's campaigning, making advantage of the good number of attendees in the festivities for him to be seen and heard.

(Prime Minister Najib Razak leaving the complex after delivering a speech, presumably, a campaign speech of sort while his team distributed pamphlets written in Tamil)

Media and Consumerism

Media coverage was comprehensive. Cameras are everywhere, reporters trying to get the best view of the pilgrimage, interviewing devotees, getting their stories and sharing them with the people at home. True enough, a day after the festival, it was on the frontpage of most (if not all) broadsheets. From the media's estimate, at least 1.5 million attended and I was one of them.

(a devotee being interviewed by a reporter)

Aside from the media, booths occupied some great space in the complex. AirAsia posters shouting "Now Everyone Can Fly", Digi Telecom and other telecom companies offering "the fastest broadband", "the best deal" (whichever's the best you won't really know). The point is, their selling alongside the locals selling drinks, snacks, clothing, garlands and many other stuff. The fair will go on for at least a week, and as much as the tradition attracts people to come, the fair is definitely one of the main reasons why people come. It's an essential part, something that has been contributed by modernity.

(AirAsia booth)

Not yet finished

As we leave the place going home, I saw the opposite side of the highway on heavy traffic jam. A sign that it's not yet over. Yes, it has just begun.