Thaipusam Tales

It's all the essential elements of a festival combined: religious tradition, deep devotion (almost like fanaticism), colorful kavadis (floats) and chariots, millions of people (locals and tourists) in attendance, politics, midday sun, fireworks, food, traffic jam, consumerism, and a whole lot of garbage after.

It's the time of the year when Batu Caves come alive for the annual Thaipusam, a Hindu festival celebrated by the Tamil communities all over the world to commemorate Parvati's handing of a spear to her son Murugan to vanquish the evil demon Soorapadam. It's a celebration of the triumph of good versus evil. To read tales from Hindu mythology/religion is a delight, but to see devotees commemorate the event is even more spectacular.

(a kavadi adorned with peocock feathers with a young image of Lord Murugan)

My supervisor took me to Batu Caves to witness the festival firsthand, and the culture vulture in me was very eager taking pictures, asking questions and experiencing the pilgrimage.

(me in the middle of the crowd)

Climbing the steps

Many Indians come to Batu caves for something like a pilgrimage, and as with most kinds of pilgrimage, it involves sacrifice, prayers and wishes, and offerings. The devotees have various ways of expressing their deep devotion and faith. The basic form of devotion is climbing the 272 steps of Batu Caves. Climbing the steps isn't easy especially when thousands of people climb it at a time. I can't simply miss the experience so I decided to go up too. I've climbed the steps four times already (one of my officemate would take me there when he visit the temple) but I especially wanted to go up on Thaipusam. During ordinary days, a lot of locals would use the steps for their exercise routine especially during the weekends, and all year round, tourists brought by bas persiaran (tourist bus) would flock the area taking as many pictures as their visit time allows.

From the ground, the people climbing look like a row of ants following one after another. It was a spectacular view. It reminded me of Catholic tradition during holy week back at home where devotees would climb grottos of a good number of steps in order for them to have a glimpse of the image of Jesus, touch the image on top and see the marvelous views.

(thousands of people climbing the stairs to the main temple)

Climbing wasn't easy. A good number of people fainted and stopped along the way. Good thing first aiders were stationed along the stairs to assist those who fainted. Fortunately, I did not faint, even if I did not have water with me along the way. I was able to drink water when I was on top, though it took a while because the supply of water does not match the demands of the people at all.

(the towering statue of Lord Muruga overshadowing thousands of devotees climbing the cave on its back)

Offerings/ Sacrifices

Another noticeable way of expressing devotion is through offerings. I saw a lot of people carrying pots of milk which they offered in the main temple once they reach the top. Others would carry fruits and food with them in baskets or jasmine garlands. Some would offer money in donation boxes found on top. Their offerings come with wishes and prayers for healing, for success, wealth, and other things both earthly and divine.

(a woman carrying a pot of milk on her head)

The more noticeable forms of sacrifices are shaving one's head, carrying heavy kavadis (representing burden) to the top of the cave, and acts of mortification of the flesh / self-hurting acts such as piercing the tongue or the cheeks, and attaching hooks on their backs while someone pulls them, and attaching fruits on ones back using pins and piercings. Mortification of the flesh such as lashing one's body, or piercing it, is a practice to cleanse oneself of sins and seek forgiveness of earthly indulgences. The death of the earthly self (represented by the flesh) is the life of the spirit, thus mortifying the flesh is a way to achieve a form of transcendence from the earthly being.

(head-shaven kid)

(a devotee carrying a kavadi, taking a break when the pilgrimage was halted)

(a man with piercings at his back being pulled by another man. he seems to be dancing along with the music as he swayed with the ropes)

I've observed some similar practices by Catholics such as being crucified and lashing one's back during holy week though the church does not encourage it anymore and labeled such acts as pagan.

Prior to Thaipusam, my supervisor said that the devotees would engage in days or weeks of fasting to prepare themselves physically and spiritually. I was in awe of the devotion the people have shown. It made me realize the importance of holding on to something. Call it faith, call it religion, call it principle, or mantra, the most important thing is it provides a sense of purpose and direction. Something that lights up the soul.

We reached the top of the cave after an hour or two. A lot of people who came before us were either praying, offering or taking pictures. There was a serenity amidst the commotion. It was like inviting for people to pray or meditate or just take a moment of silence as the light from the cathedral-like cave drops on the main temple. 

(view inside the cave)

The other elements

Tourism

Thaipusam has drawn a lot of attention from tourists especially Westerners and the neighboring countries. Come to think of it, I was one of the many tourists, an observer eager to take snaps of almost every little thing that's happening; curious about every little action and movement. It was new to me. Something I may have seen similar practices but in general, it was new to my senses. I've read some stuff about it but it doesn't quite compare to being present, being there witnessing as it unfolds. This maybe the same feelings the other tourists have that led them to pilgrimage with the locals, carry the kavadis and even experience the pains of piercing one's cheek or tongue.

Politics

Any festival will not be complete without the presence of politics, or politicians. The Prime Minister of Malaysia, Najib Razak was present. His pamphlets and posters (written in Tamil) were seen everywhere as well. He made a speech prior to our arrival at the venue. The procession was even halted for a while because he had to leave the venue and the security had to halt the procession for security and safety reasons. My supervisor said he's running for re-election this year, and his presence, his pamphlets, and his posters, mean only one thing: he's campaigning, making advantage of the good number of attendees in the festivities for him to be seen and heard.

(Prime Minister Najib Razak leaving the complex after delivering a speech, presumably, a campaign speech of sort while his team distributed pamphlets written in Tamil)

Media and Consumerism

Media coverage was comprehensive. Cameras are everywhere, reporters trying to get the best view of the pilgrimage, interviewing devotees, getting their stories and sharing them with the people at home. True enough, a day after the festival, it was on the frontpage of most (if not all) broadsheets. From the media's estimate, at least 1.5 million attended and I was one of them.

(a devotee being interviewed by a reporter)

Aside from the media, booths occupied some great space in the complex. AirAsia posters shouting "Now Everyone Can Fly", Digi Telecom and other telecom companies offering "the fastest broadband", "the best deal" (whichever's the best you won't really know). The point is, their selling alongside the locals selling drinks, snacks, clothing, garlands and many other stuff. The fair will go on for at least a week, and as much as the tradition attracts people to come, the fair is definitely one of the main reasons why people come. It's an essential part, something that has been contributed by modernity.

(AirAsia booth)

Not yet finished

As we leave the place going home, I saw the opposite side of the highway on heavy traffic jam. A sign that it's not yet over. Yes, it has just begun.